Since 1876, coffee has been enjoyed
in Japan. However, it tended to be enjoyed in small family owned restaurants
known as kissaten[i]rather than the more Western cafes most would think. For my
final project, I decided to look at the history and influence of cafes on the
greater Japanese culture. In this
essay, I look at the images of art, photography, and advertisements to further
understand the effects the early café culture had on Japan. Beginning in the
early 20th century, cafes were at the forefront of social and
political changes in Japan, which still affect society in Japan today.
The
first café in Japan was the Café Printemps located in the Tokyo neighborhood of
Ginza in 1911. This café was French inspired and attracted the intellectual
elite such as writers, politicians, and artists to taste its wares. The Café
Printemps also added to the burgeoning new occupations for young women in
Japan. They employed waitresses to serve the customers. After a few years, the
Café Lion appeared in Ginza. The Café Lion offered three floors for its
customer’s pleasure. The first floor offered a bar with alcoholic beverages,
the second with a dining room serviced with geisha, and the third with a
Renaissance theme. This café was more popular among the common people rather
than the intellectual elite of the city. The Café Lion capitalized on the use
of waitresses in their establishment.[i]
In this photo,
waitresses from the Café Printemps are shown around a bar. They are still
dressed in traditional Japanese clothes with aprons on top. These women who
were pioneers of their time were still very Japanese in style and origin. The
contrast and combination of a French inspired café and the traditional dressed
staff create an interesting image. The picture also shows how tastes were
changing with the political culture. The café was opened in the last year of
the Meiji era, a time for rapid changes in Japan. These women who would later
be known as Taisho girls were beginning to find more occupations outside of the
home. Waitresses soon gained their own moniker used to describe the occupation
and the type of girl who work the job known as jokyu. The photo shows the early
uniforms for the waitresses in the earlier days of cafés. The uniforms are very
plain and yet possess elegance. Both of the waitresses have a similar
hairstyle, however the only difference between them is the smile on the woman
on the left’s face. The woman on the left’s face seems to show an optimism that
the other woman is lacking with her frown. The photos give a small glimpse into
the world of the early cafés in Japan.
In the year 1922,
Ginza had gained about 20 cafes, and
cafes were slowly moving throughout Tokyo. [i]The Great Kanto
Earthquake of 1923 destroyed most of Tokyo. In the aftermath of the disaster,
new cafes and entertainment centers rose in Tokyo. Ginza became known as
popular place to go since the presence of cafes and newly created department
stores. Shinjuku, Kanda, Asakusa, and Shibuya all gained cafes in greater
numbers after the earthquake. Since more cafes were being opened, more jobs for
waitresses began to appear. In 1925, the number of waitresses in Tokyo reached
the number: 7,319,
while in Osaka the amount reached 4,230. [i]
In Tokyo, certain areas were known for having waitresses of a certain caliber. Also, along with serving beverages and snacks in the cafés, these women also offered sexual services to their customers. An advertisement for the Café Europe, a woman is depicted looking at a cake. However, in the picture, the shadows seem to show a slightly different scene. The shadow looks like a man with the shadow of a woman looking at him and getting closer as if they are going to kiss. This advertisement shows the two things that could have procured at these cafés. In general, these women were gaining new stature in Japanese society. They began to have disposable income to spend on the new modern products such as Western style clothes, make-up, and music. These women began to be known as modern girl or modan garu in Japanese, which was later, shortened to moga.
In Tokyo, certain areas were known for having waitresses of a certain caliber. Also, along with serving beverages and snacks in the cafés, these women also offered sexual services to their customers. An advertisement for the Café Europe, a woman is depicted looking at a cake. However, in the picture, the shadows seem to show a slightly different scene. The shadow looks like a man with the shadow of a woman looking at him and getting closer as if they are going to kiss. This advertisement shows the two things that could have procured at these cafés. In general, these women were gaining new stature in Japanese society. They began to have disposable income to spend on the new modern products such as Western style clothes, make-up, and music. These women began to be known as modern girl or modan garu in Japanese, which was later, shortened to moga.
The first picture shows the new
styles that were being accepted by the moga. The new hairstyles mainly the bob
became the main hairstyle of these women. They also began to smoke and drink
alcohol in the many cafes and clubs that sprung up around the major cities. Also
the use of Western or Western inspired make-up became more popular among women.
These women began to choose their own romantic partners instead of having their
families choose their suitors. The new clothing styles that were popular among
these women strayed from the traditional kimono and they began to wear Western
clothing.
In this photograph, three young
women are walking down a street together. They are each wearing Western style
clothing rather than traditional Japanese. Instead of wearing the constricting
kimono these women changed in to loose fitting skirt and pants. These women
cast off the beliefs that society set for them, by wearing loose fitting
clothing and extending their freedom. In the second photograph, there are two
images of the moga. On the left, tow women are standing together looking at a store
window. The camaraderie shown in this photograph presents an image of close
bond similar to sisterhood. On the right of the photograph, three women are
shown walking down a street. The
two on the outside are wearing Western clothing, while the woman in the middle
is wearing a kimono. The women on the outside are shown with smiles while the
woman in the kimono is shown with a frown. The frowning traditional woman
became a motif in early modern art in Japan showing the progress that came with
modernism and only the unfortunate memories tied to traditional clothing. The
moga were changing the perception of Japanese women through their style
choices.
Since
the moga evolved from the café girls, they soon became a cultural phenomenon
and were portrayed in many mediums. They were shown in shown in magazine and
books. The most influential of the books about moga is Naomi written by Tanizaki Jun’ichiro.
The novel explores the relationship
between salary man Jojo and the teenage café waitress Naomi. Jojo meets Naomi
when she is fifteen and working in café as waitress, he slowly begins to groom
her to be a perfect Western girl. Eventually she overpowers him and gains the
control in the relationship. Tanizaki creates the image that Western ideal may
have corrupted Naomi into dominating Jojo rather than him keeping the control
in the relationship. (Amazon/Other)
Moga as a cultural
phenomenon changed the way art was created. The style of art deco made its way
to Japan just as the moga were beginning to emerge in society. This new style
of art capitalized on the new looks of modernism to create an interesting
visual. The new fonts and layout that came with art deco were widely used in
the magazines of the day. The artists of the day began to change their style to
showcase the intersection of Japanese subject matter and Western style.
This kimono is covered with many
smaller mock magazine covers and advertisements. The combination of the
traditional Japanese kimono and art deco design shows how modernism and classic
style collided. The close up of the kimono shows one of the images that are on
the kimono.
The image is a woman who is drawn
in an art deco style. The image looks like a magazine cover who illustrates how
important magazine were becoming to society. The kimono is also decorated with
sheet music and covers of magazine and sheet music books. The collision of new
music, especially jazz, modernism, and moga changed traditional arts. Paintings
changed as well with Japanese painters depicting the new changes that they saw
around them.
This painting features a woman
wearing a kimono while lounging in a Western seat. The painting differs from
traditional Japanese paintings because of perspective and style. The style is
almost completely Western, while the subject manner is an early modern Japanese
woman. The combination of Japanese and Western elements found its heart with
the moga the modernism that Japan was experiencing.
The moga soon
began to be sexualized by men instead of being seen as women who were
liberating themselves. The combination of a freer existence based off of
Western culture, the choice of romantic partners, and possibly the sale of
erotic services in cafés led to this.
In this picture that was featured
on the cover of a songbook, we see a young woman putting on make-up. She is
styled with the usual moga looks: bobbed hair, western clothing, and make-up.
However, instead of looking powerful like the other photographs, she looks more
innocent. The way she is positioned with her head looking back gives a look of
demure sexuality. The use of the mirror and the make-up give the image a sense
of surprise as if someone approached her when she was dressing. Also, the way
her slip’s strap has fallen adds to this sexuality. This picture gives the
impression of the moga have a coy sexuality about them rather than seeming
empowered to choose their own rights. Many songs were written about the moga
and how men began to see them as sexual objects rather than early feminists.
Watasha yoru saku sakaba no hanayo
Akai kuchi beni kinsha no tamoto
Neon raito de ukarete odori
Samete samishii namidabana
Samete samishii namidabana
Watasha kanashii sakaba no hana yo
Yoru wa otome yo hiruma wa haha yo
Mukashi kakushita namida no tamoto
Fukete omoi wa tsuyu ja nai
[I am a flower in the bar that blooms at night
With red lipstick and silk kimono sleeves.
I dance merrily under the neon light.
I dance merrily under the neon light.
When sober, it's a lonely flower of tears.
I am a sad flower in the bar
A young girl by night and a mother by day.
In the past, I hid my tearful sleeves.
When the night wears on, it’s not the dew that makes them heavy.
A young girl by night and a mother by day.
In the past, I hid my tearful sleeves.
When the night wears on, it’s not the dew that makes them heavy.
(Jokyu no Uta, Song of the Waitress)[i]
This song illustrates the way these modern women
especially waitresses were being sexualize by the men that they were serving in
the cafes. The song creates the image of a young woman who shrugs her
responsibilities as a mother and begins to go out at night and dance. The woman
in the song laments that she used to cry about the state of her life, but she
stills does because she cannot stay in the life she wants. The woman also
believes that she can only be herself at night when she dances and drinks in
the clubs and the bars of the city. The image of the mother turned moga at
night possibly is an image that many would find attractive. The belief that
women should be good mothers was still ingrained the cultural psyche, while the
new emergence of the moga brought the new modern image of a sexually liberated
woman to the consciousness. Eventually the end of Taisho era led to the
beginning of the Showa era, which began to focus the national attention on
militarism. The ideal of the good mother quickly became the main ideal and
women were highly pressured to become good wives and mothers and raise strong
Japanese children. The cafés stayed open, but the freedom that women
experienced was gone.
Café
culture has changed since the earlier days in the Taisho era, and now there are
many varieties of cafés. The most influential and popular has the maid and
butler cafes. In the maid cafés, men are waited on by women typically dresses
in French maid inspired uniforms, while being addressed as ‘master’. These
cafes offer the same foods and beverages but they are more expensive because of
the atmosphere and are staffed by women in uniforms.
The maid cafés plays in to both
sexual and non-sexual fantasies created by their customers. The sense of control coupled with the
demeanor of the waitresses contributes to the possible fantasy of having
control over someone or something. These women may also instill a sense of
companionship in their customer that they may not find elsewhere. The maids
also help create and sustain the images of video games, manga, and anime that
may drive their customers to visit the cafes. The brother to the maid café is
the butler café, which mostly appealed to women.
The butler café plays into the
ideals of being served by men, when it typically the other way around. In many
cafés, the customers may be addressed as ‘princess’ and treated better than
they do on a daily basis. Also, in some butler cafés, the employees may be
hired from aboard to give the impression of a foreign prince coming to save or
pamper
them.[i]Both of these cafes are contemporary establishments that provide
an area for others to share their fantasies.
When
I began this project I thought it was going to strictly about the early cafés
in Japan, but it opened me up to many problems and progress that came with
modernism. Café culture started a short-lived yet influential revolution among
the youth in Japan. The modern girls began to find ways to fulfill their lives
other than being a mother. The choice to work and the ability to choose
romantic partners were revolutionary. They took advantage of the more liberal
political atmosphere to show the government that women needed equal rights to
men. The cafe culture was more than just pretty girls serving people, it began a new lifestyle for many Japanese women, while changing the way people understand themselves and the people in their country. The contemporary cafes follow in the footsteps laid before them whether they are regular cafes or maid cafe, they all gained from the original cafes. Cafes created a revolution that was needed for the women and Japan, in general, to understand the needs of the modern world.
[1] Wikipedia,
Kissaten
[1] Being Modern in
Japan: Culture and Society from the 1910s to the 1930s, editors: Elise Tipton and
John Clark, University of Hawaii Press, Pg. 120 -121
[1] Being Modern in
Japan Pg. 122
[1] Being Modern in
Japan, Pg. 122
[1] http://afp.google.com/article/ALeqM5hhBQ7ji0pVP194qcI36ojROut10Q